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Hull & Deck >> Hull Extension Project Description

Progress on this endeavor could only be accomplished with a collaborative effort involving many innovative products, companies and individuals. To find out more about these companies and products, select any one of the company links below.

Sponsors For This Project: MAS Epoxies | Anchor Bay East Marina


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Making the Jig

In preparation for making the mold jig, the boat is hauled on land and leveled according to the waterline. The pile of lumber that will be used for the jig is in the foreground.
The next step was to block and level the 4x4 across the back of the boat. Next, a deck of 3/4" plywood was laid on these 4x4's, glued and screwed in place. Three sides were then erected on this deck.

Making the Jig

Making the Jig

The jig extends a portion of the way under the boat and had to be notched for the props and rudder. The sides of the box were carefully squared. A small laser level was placed on the side of the hull on the waterline and used to mark the back side of the jig wall.
Here is the inside of the jig box. Although it is difficult to see from this photo, there is a chalk-line across the back wall indicating the waterline. This line was used as a reference for all work and was considered level 0. Anything above was a positive number and anything below a negative number.

Making the Jig

Making the Jig

A vertical center line was drawn on the transom. Parralel lines were then drawn every foot across the transom. Using the waterline as a reference, each line was then given a horizontal mark every 6 inches. Measurements were made and a coresponding center vertical line was drawn on the jig's back wall. As on the transom, parralel vertical lines wer drawn every foot across the wall. Using the earlier drawn chalkline as a reference, horizontal marks were made on these lines every six inches.
A photo of the jig after it was put into the garage. Now work begins to make surface for glassing.

The Form

Taking Shape

The mold is taking shape! 3/8" plywood was laid for the bottom base and 1/4" luan for the transom. The ridge across the aft is made so the boat can have a mahogany transom.
Strips of wood were used to form the curve on the double chines. Mica board will be fitted and and eventually cover all areas to be glassed.

Chines

Mica

Dave applied Mica to all surfaces. He is now working on the recesses for the trim tabs but I keep changing my mind on how to do it.
Note the box form on the lower right. This is for the trim tab cylinders. The plate on the bottom is to recess the tabs and the plate on the back is for a cover. Dave is working on the return. The return is the portion for bolting to the existing boat.

Tab Detail

Tape on Seams

Dave had an idea to tape any seam with Tyvek tape because of our experience with edges of the MIca sticking in the mold. Here, I am finishing the tape job that Dave had almost finished the day before.
Stacey is waxing the mold. She is glad we didn't build the entire boat!

Waxing

Wetting Out

Dave is wetting out a piece of woven roving glass cloth with MAS Epoxy. It will then be placed in the mold and trimmed to shape.
The mold now has several layers of glass laid in it. Sections below the waterline will receive four layers and above waterline will receive three before the core is inserted. Critical areas and areas of high stress will receive additional layers. One of these areas is the trim tab insert; another would be chines.

Glass Laid-In

Core

In this photo, we are starting to lay in the core while the glass is still wet. The core is screwed into place and screws will be removed prior to laying more glass.
Once all of the core is in place we laid a sheet of plastic over the entire mold and vacuumed. The intent is to create even pressure on the core so it will bond properly to the wetted-out glass. This process will continue overnight.

Vacuuming

Better than Viagra

This is what my socks looked like after a day of playing in epoxy. Note, they are sitting susspended on a 1/2" board. They are stiff!
The core now has one layer of glass over it. Note the three holes at the 5, 6,and 7 marks. These are for the Imtra underwater lights. It is best to have solid glass in which to install these lights.

Prep for Lights

Stringers

In this photo, the tringers are glassed in place. At this time not much glass was used. More glassing will be accomplished when the unit is attached to the hull.
Using a floor jack, we positioned the mold onto two carts and rolled it to the door. Bruce, Dave, and Mark did the work since I needed to take the photo.

Moving the Mold

Bob-Cat Help

Once it was rolled to the door, Bruce took over with his bob-cat.
We then pulled the mold on its side to dump the part out. It did not dump!

Dumping the Part

Bruce at Work

We beat and hit on the part but it was not coming out. Dave then made strategic cuts in the mold and Bruce dismatled it with the bob-cat.
Even with the mold to this point, the part would not come out. Bruce did more convincing with his machine!

Breaking the Mold

Lookin Good!

The part is out! You can see that mica is still stuck on the bottom. I am very pleased with the part though.
We loaded and secured the part on Bruce's trailer and he took it to Anchor Bay. We unloaded the part behind the boat so that touch up, trimming, and cutting-in the exhaust could be accomplished.

Getting Close to Adding

The Grind!

We ground the area of the hull where the new part will be bonded as well as approximately 8" where it will be glassed and faired. This grinding took off the gel-coat and unmasked the real glass.
Here Dave is performing more grinding. Also note that the areas where the stringers are located, are ground.

More Grind!

Art's Crane

Art, from Anchor Bay, used his crane to move the part into place. We then put a few planks and jack-stands under it. This allowed us to make the adjustments we needed.
The part placed on planks allowed us to move it back when we were ready to put the epoxy in the correct positin, then slide it forward and bolt. Note how well it fit!

Placed Part

A Natural Look

Not a West Coast job; this enhancment looks natural.
A view from the side, looking aft.

Side View

Bridge View

A view from the bridge.
This is what it is all about! Creating more wetted surface and additional lift. The extention is 27". Previously, the tabs had stuck out more than 8", and now they are recessed. Essentially, we have only extended the surface 19" behind the hardware.

More Lift

Out with the Old

Dave is cutting through the old transom with a saws-all. The new part has been already been bolted in place.
This is a nice size area now. Cutting out the old part now makes it easier to glass and do work in the new part. We are also trying to get some air. This is July in Maryland!

New Area!

Hull Photo

Extention is bolted and tabbed on.
The exhaust has been cut to size, inserted, and pasted in place.

Exhaust Pasted

Exhaust Tabbed

The exhaust is tabbed and glassed into place.
I originally thought that the mahogany should run to the water line. This however did not make sense since over 5 1/2" will be painted with boot stripes. Also, fitting foam around the exhaust and drain pipes is easier than fitting mahogany. Here you can see that I have bonded core-cell to the area. A layer of epoxy and glass will now be applied.

Boot Stripe Area

Stretched Out!

Here is the completed addition. It flows well and makes the boat more in proportion.

Before

Before.
After!

After

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